I picked up On the Mexican Highlands thinking it would be a dry old travelogue. Boy, was I wrong. This thing reads like a diary written by a smart, restless friend who can’t sit still. William Seymour Edwards heads south with a camera and a notebook, and what he found would make most modern travel bloggers jealous—and maybe a little scared.

The Story

Basically, Edwards rides the rails (by train, by mule, sometimes on foot) from the US border into Chihuahua and down to Vera Cruz, then hops a boat to Cuba for a quick look. But the adventure gets an edge when he hears rumors of a lost civilization—maybe even the son of Montezuma still living in a secret canyon. He also gets caught up in a dusty rebellion, witnesses fairgrounds where locals dance for days, and ends up writing about everything from mining towns to haunted missions. It's part travel log, part colonial anthropology, part rescue mission. And Edwards doesn't sugarcoat: he talks about both the beauty (“the air smells of wild honey and hot tin”) and the ugliness (poverty, dangerous mules, hotel food that will make you grateful for a McDonald's).

Why You Should Read It

I loved how honest Edwards is. He isn’t interested in being a perfect Victorian gentleman—he admits when he’s lost, frustrated, or even scared. And he doesn’t pretend the locals are just exotic background noise. He talks about railroad workers, Zuni guides, and a creepy butler in a way that feels respectful without being preachy. The core mystery: will he actually find that lost city? I'm not going to spoil it, but… it’s not what you expect. Also, if you’ve traveled around Mexico today, you’ll be surprised by how much has stayed the same (who doesn’t love a good off‑pay road?) and how much has changed (monasteries that have been tourist hotels for 100 years). This book made me want to plan a trip, get lost, drink pulque, and maybe not lose my passport this time.

Final Verdict

If you’re into history, old travel writing, or just like a story that yanks you somewhere weird and unexpected, this is definitely for you. It’s got pace, a real feeling for place, and just enough danger to be exciting without terrifying you. Give it a read—preferably while eating a bowl of spicy soup and ignoring your email for an hour.